The LORD is my rock, my fortress and my deliverer;
Psalm 18:2
my God is my rock, in whom I take refuge.
He is my shield and the horn of my salvation, my stronghold.
Our third and last day of the long weekend, Monday, brought us to the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth at over 1300 feet below sea level. It is the saltiest body of water in the world at 30-40% (by comparison the ocean is about 3% and the Great Salt Lake in Utah is about 15%). Additionally, the sea is dying, dropping at about a meter per year because most of its water sources are being irrigated off.
We started at one of my favorite sites: Masada. Perched above the Dead, this large plateau sits deep in the desert with a large palace/fortress on top. The Hebrew word “masada” is often translated as “stronghold”. Herod the Great designed it so he wouldn’t just survive out here, but he would thrive. From food supplies to water systems, he designed for the impossible. He built aqueducts to channel water to massive cisterns within the mount. He brought large stores of food, some of which was found preserved in the dry climate. If anything got out of hand in Jerusalem, he could flee here and withstand a long siege if needed, living in comfort. Masada was the last Jewish stronghold during the Jewish Revolt to be captured (c. AD 73). The Romans built a massive siege ramp up to the mount and eventually broke through. Masada stands as a symbol of Jewish nationalism today.
Our next stop was the oasis of En Gedi, where we had lunch and swam (floated would be a better word) in the Dead Sea. There are fresh water springs that flow in the canyons of En Gedi, making it a refuge in this harsh, relentless desert. A short hike up the canyon yields cool pools and waterfalls, life-giving water (what would be called “living water” in Hebrew) that stands in stark contrast to the dead, salty waters of the Dead Sea nearby.
Our next stop was Qumran, which sits near the caves in which the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.
I sadly read this morning that Steve Jobs passed away. I think Jobs had a bit of the Herod spirit in him – he pushed the envelope and didn’t take no for an answer. He revolutionized the computing industry, giving us innovative new pieces of technology. But now what? People build kingdoms that eventually crumble. I hope Apple continues to bring amazing products for years to come, but how long will that last? For those who follow Jesus, however, we are joining a kingdom that will last forever. In the latter chapters of the prophecies of Ezekiel, he saw a river coming out of Jerusalem and flowing to the Dead Sea: “This water flows toward the eastern region and goes down into the Arabah [Jordan Rift Valley], where it enters the [Dead] Sea. When it empties into the Sea, the water there becomes fresh. Swarms of living creatures will live wherever the river flows” (Ezekiel 47:7-8). Just as God can restore as something as lifeless as the Dead Sea to life, so we who follow the Messiah have the promise of the resurrection.Our final stop was near the northern shore of the Dead Sea (we had been slowly heading north all day) at an abandoned restaurant. It is here that we stopped and reflected. On the shores of this dead, salty sea, life can be found. There are those like Herod who brought life to it, forcing his will on the world. He had the intuition to shape the world as he pleased. On the other hand, the springs of En Gedi flow as crafted by God’s hand, carrying life-giving waters to the thirsty traveler, slowly carving out the rock to form a canyon. Herod’s fortress sits in ruins while En Gedi still flows. It bids pause and ponder. What do I depend on? What am I building?
We are in the Days of Awe, which culminate this Saturday with Yom Kippur (the Day of Atonement). It is a special time to reflect and make things right with God and other people. It is an annual reminder that God “will judge the living and the dead” (2 Timothy 4:1). Tune in Saturday for some reflections on Yom Kippur.
“Show me, O LORD, my life’s end
Psalm 39:4-5
and the number of my days;
let me know how fleeting is my life.
You have made my days a mere handbreadth;
the span of my years is as nothing before you.
Each man’s life is but a breath.”
